An old Greek and Armenian fishing district on the Sea of Marmara, Kumkapi is a brief taxi ride from the centre of the Old City. For a while it was one of the best places in town for fish fans. Simplicity was a virtue, with a clutch of meyhaneler that opened up around a lovely square serving fresh fish in a lively environment. When it’s warm, and all the seating is outside, the place still has a good buzz about it, but popularity with tourists has brought a certain naffness, and a reputation for its restaurateurs as a little dishonest – short-changing customers, bringing you dishes you didn’t order, and so on. However, many of the establishments still serve plenty of tasty fish, and if you’re in the area and hungry it remains a good bet. Restaurants like Okyanus and Patara, off the main square, are recommended, where the food is a straightforward fish meze and can be very good.