Hg2 : The Hedonist

Grand Bazaar

The spiritual home of shopping in Istanbul, the Grand Bazaar is an extraordinary city unto itself, divided into mini-suburbs of one trade or another. At its heart is ç Bedesten (Inner Bazaar), the ancient and comparatively genteel home of many of the market’s most respected merchants. It’s here you’ll find many of the bazaar’s highest value items, antiques, metalwork and curios. To its north and west are the carpet dealers, to its south and east, jewellers and gold and silver merchants. Textile and leather dealers are found primarily in the alleys at the market’s extreme west. Shopping in the Grand Bazaar seriously takes at least half a day, allowing time for looking, comparing, getting tired, looking again, haggling, arguing, and possibly storming off and starting the whole process somewhere else. But that would be bad manners, as you shouldn’t enter into protracted bargaining unless you intend to buy. For that vital rest, bite to eat and stimulating coffee, look for the Fes Café (Halicilar Caddesi 62 just north of ç Bedesten), Julia’s Kitchen (Keseciler Caddesi, south of ç Bedesten) or Sark Kahvesi (Yalikçilar Caddesi 134, on the corner of Fesciler Caddesi). With around 5,000 shops (including 1,600 jewellers alone) on 60 streets, the selection below amounts only to a few highlights. rnrnrnAbdulla Natural Ürünler (Halicilar Caddesi 58-60) – 100% natural, handmade textiles and soaps. rnAdiyaman Pazari (Yalikçilar Caddesi 74-46) – top dealer in Gaziantep weaves, the highly-coloured, traditional, Ottoman textiles.  rnBarocco Gümü (Kalcilar Han 31) – master silversmith Baruyr Ortainceyan’s shop; simple, affordable pieces alongside the fabulous, ornate and expensive. rnDervis (Keseciler Caddesi 33–35) – excellent quality textiles, including cotton towels from Bursa, as well as natural soaps. rnEthniCon (Takkeciler Sokak 58–60) – contemporary and highly fashionable patchwork kilims; fixed prices.  rnGaleri  irvan Halicilik (Halicilar Caddesi 50-54) – respected carpet dealer.  rnKalendar Carpets (Takkeciler Sokak 24-26, www.kalendercarpet.com) – top (and therefore pricey) Anatolian carpets; located on main carpet alley.  rnKurtolu Hali (Zenneciler Sokak 24) – well-designed carpets and kilims. rnLumes (Zincirli Han 16) – dazzling Ottoman-style chandeliers.  rnPako (Kalpakçilar Caddesi 87) – beautiful handbags and purses.  rnSisko Osman (Zincirli Han 15) – eponymous shop of the Bazaar’s most famous carpet dealer; highest quality.  rnYörük Deri (Kürkçüler Çarsisi 17) – specialist in ethnic rugs, especially from the Caucausus

Opening Times
9am-7pm Mon-Sat. Closed Sun.
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