Hg2 : The Hedonist

A Hedonist’s guide to…

Istanbul

Arnavut Köfte
Small, simple and anonymous, Arnavut Köfte serves up uncomplicated köfte with side orders of rice salad and ayran - this is fast food in Istanbul. Located in the Old City, head here after a morning in the Egyptian Bazaar.yEventWat
Erenler Aile Çay Bahçesi
Nargile smoking isn't for everyone but imagine the scene - the atmospheric courtyard of an old Ottoman seminary, the last pink rays of the setting sun, the call to prayer echoing from the Old City's minarets...yEventWatcherD
Kahve Dunyasi
If the Modern's cafe doesn't appeal, pop into the charming bustling Kahve Dunyasi for a chocolate fix.
Kubbeli Saloon Tea Lounge
An exception to the Fawlty Towers-esque feel that pervades the Pera Palace Hotel, the Patisserie and Terrace Bar are a charming option for a cake and slice of high Victorian grandeur.
Mado Ice Cream
Carrot, pumpkin or fig? Ice-cream fans probably think they've experience pretty much ever flavour under the sun, but Ben & Jerry's and Haagen Dazs certainly can't rival Mado for range and diversity. =display:none"
Mangerie
Home to some of the world's best marzipan, there are many reasons to visit the smart Bosphorus village Bebek. High up that list is this lovely cafe-restaurant.
Markiz Café
Unlike most of our recommendations, this old-school Pera cafe is firmly on the tourist trail. Nonetheless it has a curious charm; tuck into delicious pastries and try to imagine its former glory.=display:none;""
Pierre Loti Café
If you've ticked off Sultanahmet's cultural splendours, Nisantasi's chic shopping, Kurucesme's high-octane clubs and Beyoglu's restaurant scene (phew), now's the time to enjoy Pierre Loti cafe.
Tarihi Selim Usta
Another meatball specialist (that sounds much better in Turkish), this elaborately named restaurant is one of the best places in town to experience köfte at their zenith.
The Lounge at the Four Seasons
Impeccable tea room at the almost faultless Four Seasons...
Vefa Bozacisi
From boza (a fermented millet drink unchanged since Turkic pre-history) to sira (a fermented grape juice), a host of traditional pleasures are on offer at the pretty Vefa Bozacisi.

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