Hg2 : The Hedonist

A Hedonist’s guide to…

Istanbul

Feriye
If this fabulous restaurant was any closer to the Bosphorus, it would be underwater. With food and service as befits its grand setting, it is perfect for a special night out.
Balikci Sabahattin
Some of the best fish in Istanbul is served in this charming simple restaurant in the Old Town. Balikci Sabahattin is particularly recommended in summer for its pretty outdoor dining.
Haci Abdullah
Universally good food and service are the secret of Haci Abdullah's longevity. Easily surpassing the myriad of competitors on Istiklal Caddesi, this large, warm restaurant is a perennial favourite.d
Refik
To dine at Refik is to tap into the traditional tavern scene. Join Istanbul's political intellectuals for some top quality meze and put the world to rights (if you're Turkish is up to scratch).
Asitane
Tradition with a twist. This stylish restaurant, tucked away in the basement of the unremarkable Kariye Hotel, serves up excellent Ottoman cuisine in an elegant setting.
Poseidon
Located in Bebek, the smart village-cum-suburb on the European shore of the Bosphorus, a trip to this excellent seafood restaurant is something of a pilgrimage.
Borsa
A perenntial favourite despite its unprepossessing location, join the smart Nisantasi crowd at this chic 500-seat restaurant for some of the best Turkish cuisine in town.
Develi
This excellent Anatolian restaurant overlooking the Sea of Marmara is perfect for frustrated mariners, as the large terrace allows a birds eye view of the Bosphorus' maritime traffic.y
Pandeli
An Istanbul classic, Pandeli's charm lies in its location - there can be few better places to feel the the essence of Old Istanbul.
Beyti
Although located a substantial taxi ride from the centre, meat lovers should follow in the footsteps of Jimmy Carter and Richard Nixon and make a pilgrimage to Beyti.
Flamm
A modern Mediterranean restaurant, Flamm stands out amidst Asmalimescit's serried eateries. It's a great place to start an evening out.
Ayasofya Konaklari
This slightly old-fashioned hotel has one major advantage - an almost unrivaled location on the doorstep of Sultanahmet's cultural attractions.
Yakup 2
One of the most authentic of Asmalimescit's meyhanes, Yakup 2 has a traditional earthly feel reminiscent of days gone by. Nightclub Babylon is just round the corner to dance off the meze.
Seasons
If you are not fortunate enough to be staying at the excellent Four Seasons hotel in Sultanahmet, a trip to the Seasons Restaurant is a good substitute if you are in the mood for fine dining.
Çiya
A local favourite, Istanbulis frequently cross continents to visit Çiya for a taste of its sophisticated Anatolian cuisine. A must if you are staying on the Asian Shore at A'jia or Sumahan on the Water.
Bebek Balikçi
For an authentic taste of turkish fare, head out to this charming venue and get ready for a the freshest seafood Istanbul has on offer.
Kumkapi Meyhanes
Although popularity with the tourist hordes has taken some of the joy out of eating at the Kumkapi Meyhanes, it is still a fun experience on a warm night. The fish is, as always, delicious.
Doga Balik
Delicious meze and fabulously fresh fish are served alongside superb views of the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. Within easy reach of Beyoglu's bars and clubs; head to nearby 5 Kat for a post-dinner drink.

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