The
road from Cascais to Guincho Beach has a queue of large waterfront seafood
restaurants, all looking like US-style characterless warehouses. Most of which
are a forgettable experience of overcooked soggy fish dishes and overpriced
wine lists – except for Furnas do Guincho. Call ahead in peak season to
guarantee a table on the oceanfront sundeck.

The seafood Paella is as good as
any you’ll find this side of Valencia. It’s also a truly great spot for the
local favourite dish, ameijoas a portuguesa – clams in a
deliciously potent winey sauce of garlic and coriander. Mopped up with crusty
bread and washed down with a ginjinha (cherry brandy), while looking out at the
peachy sun setting over the Atlantic completes the quintessential Portuguese
seaside experience.