In their first venue – Hoxton’s ineffable White Lyan – bartender dream team Ryan Chetiyawardana and Iain Griffiths distilled their concept down to its essence: house-made spirits. Minimalistic décor. No ice. No citrus. Everything measured and balanced and pre-batched in the morning, as exacting as a concerto.

In Dandelyan, the two have welcomed back a touch of the baroque. Within the Mondrian hotel along the South Bank, designer Tom Dixon’s jewel-toned nautical theme extends to the bar, all brass and green marble and blushing rose. Decadent but prevailingly elegant, still – like the drinks, which list “modern botany” as their theme and draw inspiration from oak, pine, and birch tree ecosystems (really). The less adventurous may arch an eyebrow, but rest assured that every tipple issued forth from that verdant stretch has ballerina-perfect balance.