On any given night, you’ll find hordes of media bods 5-deep at the bar of Soho stalwart, The Sun & 13 Cantons. Such is its auspicious locale – in the heart of central London’s action – the smartly-appointed boozer is rarely empty.

Its 1940s-esque adjoining dining room has welcomed Oxalis; the brainchild of British-trained Max De Nahlik and French-trained Nick Ross. Their menu showcases the inventiveness of the former and the finesse and flavour-balance precision of the latter. Plates come large or small so you can indulge in many, tapas-style.

There’s perfectly packaged squash tortellini that burst with a rich squash crème upon biting. There’s tiny octopus tendrils atop a feisty dukkah and the most tender partridge alongside haricot beans and a ‘green’ sauce. Aside from the pretty plates, Oxalis deal in filthy so-wrong-it’s-right bar snacks like short rib poutine, slathered in a rich meaty jus.

Wine-wise, The Sun & 13 Cantons’ list is short but sweet and well chosen – a St Emilion Chateau Teyssier Gr Cru here, a St Veran Bichot there. Come for lunch or early in the week for dinner – but book ahead to secure a table.