19 Numara Bos Cirrik
The scintillating stretch of the Stoke Newington Road where this lies is the centre of Dalston’s Turkish restaurant enclave. 19 Numara Bos Cirrik’s neighbours number a branch of the mighty Mangal and Istanbul Isembecisi, once the greatest and still the grandest Turkish restaurant in town and now mostly noteworthy because it’s open until 5am. 19 Numera Bos Cirrik shuts up shop a lot a lot earlier, lacks the chandeliers and looks like a small nondescript café but few – and certainly not Charles Campion, of the London Restaurant Guide who speaks of its “magnificent grilled meats” – would deny that it’s the current reigning Turk. Cooked on an ocakbasi grill the meats – mostly bits of lamb – from spare ribs to kidneys, and pieces of poultry – from chicken to quail – are done to perfection. Vegetarians can chew on a stuffed onion.