Next time you hear some know-it-all bang on about ‘doomed restaurant sites’ point them to NW1’s L’Absinthe, which has changed hands more times over the last decade than Primrose Hill princess Kate Moss has changed boyfriends (before she tied the knot, of course). It’s now a cute wine shop cum dining room that gives the locals (many of whom admittedly wouldn’t know a good restaurant if it came up and bit them on the arse) what they want. In this case that means a familiar oh-so-French-it-almost-hurts-but-still-charming bistro that serves onion soup and duck confit. It’s slickly run by Jean-Christophe Slowik, an ex Marco Pierre White major-domo for 20 years and somehow still smiling. The set lunch menu, priced at £8.50 for two courses, or for one course, with a glass of wine and a coffee, is a steal, as is the compact all-French wine list.