Maison Bertaux, a constant in Soho’s multitude of cafés since 1871, doesn’t care much for cool. And because of that, it has it in buckets. An intimate space set over two floors, this is classic Soho bohemia: a haphazard collection of wobbling, mismatched furniture, charmingly chipped crockery (in which some of London’s finest loose-leaf brews are served), and is full of character and characters. Not least the theatrical staff headed up by the eccentric Michelle – ask for a cappuccino and you’ll be summarily dismissed to Bar Italia: this is a French café, and café au lait is what you’re getting; ask for a (non-existent) menu and expect a glacial glare. It’s also known for its unapologetically full-fat patisseries, all freshly baked on the premises. This may be a timeless Soho throwback, but there’s something very fashionable about Maison Bertaux – its unpretentious, effortless shabby chic draws in hip Japanese girls, scenesters hoping to refuel after some hard partying, and fashionistas – make sure you don’t take Alexander McQueen’s table (first floor by the window, last on the left).