This, the first branch of Maroush, opened in 1981 and founded an empire that today includes Randa, Ranoush, Beirut Express and Sidi Maaroof and extends along much of the Edgware Road with further outposts in Chelsea, Kensington and Knightsbridge. Although some branches of Maroush appear to have interchangeable menus, this is still very much the flagship of the group and as such has an especially vast 50-strong meze selection and a particularly lengthy meat-heavy list of chargrilled Lebanese specialities, laced with such offal treats as beid ghanem (lambs’ testicles). Portions are generous to a fault and on a good night the service (erring towards old school formal) can be charm itself. A typically late night affair, it’s decked out very much as you’d expect for somewhere that has live Arabic music and belly dancing every night from 9.30pm.