Atul Kochhar has got form when it comes to doing Mayfair-Indian-deluxe. Formerly head chef of the nearby Tamarind he opened Benares, overlooking Berkeley Square, in 2003. Reassuringly (or is that predictably?) expensive, it’s a chic windowless palace of top-notch modern Indian hospitality. The flavours achieved, particularly with the tandoor, are exceptional. Elsewhere there’s an occasional touch of fusion on display in dishes which incorporate European ingredients, such as foie gras. For those who want a no-expense-spared experience there’s the multi-coursed grazing menu with wine flight. That Kochhar has maintained standards, in the flagship of a nascent empire now, is a compliment to Benares’ brigade. Front of house is a smooth but far from speedy operation, one that deals best with customers prepared to luxuriate in a haute Indian experience.