On the page, Buns & Buns sounds like it shouldn’t work. A restaurant that specialises in bread-based products should be doomed to fail, simply because you’d get full before the starter course was even halfway through. Add in the fact that Buns & Buns’ first location was in bikini-clad Miami, and the picture looks even less likely.

Happily, however, Buns & Buns pulls off its vision—primarily because the menu of globetrotting fare is deliciously done (and isn’t nearly as stodgy as it sounds). To begin, we eat a burrata caprese salad, carbs supplied in the form of a petite, olive-studded baton of bread. Next, we move onto beer-battered corn fritters; Asian-style steamed baos filled with chilli-laced prawns; and moreish, Roman-style carbonara pizza, puffed-up and golden and crowned with the jiggle of a still-liquid egg yolk. The lone disappointment is the restaurant’s heralded lobster roll, which goes too heavy on the mayonnaise and scrimps on the filling. But it’s possible to eat well and diversely here, and also order some less starch-centric dishes, from roast chicken to a side of broccolini.

Coeliacs might still struggle—and you’d do well to come hungry—but Buns & Buns, housed in a glassed-in fishbowl in the middle of the Covent Garden Piazza, still offers plenty to like (plus an atmosphere that, despite its touristy setting, manages to feel fun and festive).