The London outpost of David ‘Shanghai Tang’ Tang, the Asian cigar-magnate who, as well as running his upmarket international clothing label, has China Clubs in Hong Kong, Beijing and Singapore. China Tang in the bowels of The Dorchester on Park Lane is an attempt to bring a similarly upscale Cantonese experience to London. Although not quite the freak-show on display at the Cipriani, chef Adam Byatt enjoys watching the clientele, a mixture of botox-casualties and moneyed younger glamour. The Cantonese cooking in dishes such as fried crispy-skin chicken, steamed sea bass and Peking duck doesn’t come cheap but with Hakkasan and Royal China it’s probably the best in town. The wine list starts high and goes up from there. The interior, and in particularly the bar, does a good line in 1920s Shanghai-style glamour.