Galvin at Windows
The wraparound view of London from the 28th floor of the Park Lane Hilton is hard to beat and on a clear day you can see, well, if not forever, at least everything from Buckingham Palace to the West End, making it, for Jay Rayner, the quintessential London experience. The makeover of the restaurant at the summit of this ’60s-built landmark was a long time coming. Gone are the buffet and entertainment stage, replaced by lots of cream, dark wood and sets of string curtains. Shame the bar has lost its louche charm in the process. Overseen by the brothers Galvin, whose Marylebone bistrot offers a less elevated experience, the accomplished modern French cooking from Andre Garrett provides more than a distraction from the view. It’s a view that’s available for breakfast, lunch and dinner and, as you’d expect, doesn’t comes cheap.