Dark of façade, sultry of interior, and located on an otherwise unremarkable corner of Borough, Great Guns Social looks like little more than a neighbourhood pub from the outside. But inside, surprising—and impressive—culinary hijinks are afoot. Chef and cookbook author Maria Elia has curated a rotating series of kitchen residencies, and her roster features chefs from all over the map (quite literally).

Take the chef who was at the helm during our meal, Jay Morjaria, who hails from Singapore but now cooks primarily plant-based fare inspired by his long stint in South Korea. His menu was full of surprises: grilled aubergine paired beautifully with Korean ssamjang, roasted grapes and onion puree, and burrata was served alongside blood orange ponzu, shiso, pine nuts, and chilli. His more carnivorous dishes were accomplished, too: a special of congee (savoury rice porridge) topped with roseate slices of duck and pickled persimmon was a marvel.

That Morjaria’s residency is coming to a close is bittersweet. If his stint is any indication, many more superlative meals are in store at Great Guns Social—and the kitchen’s changing guises offer ample inspiration for return visits.