The newest venture by Karam Sethi, the man behind Michelin-starred Marylebone restaurant Trishna, Gymkhana recreates Colonial India with an ode to the gentlemen’s clubs of the British Raj. As uncomfortable as this might sound, the aesthetics are actually incredibly appealing, with deep, dark leather booths, wooden panelling and an array of hunting trophies setting the scene for the carefully curated menu that follows. Taking its inspiration from Indian club snacks, or nashta, the menu is split between smaller sharer starters – with a large emphasis placed on dishes cooked in the tandoor oven – and larger mains, divided into kebabs, tikkas, game, chops, curry and biryani. Star dishes include a melt-in-the mouth Kid Goat Methi Keema and the Lamb Nalli Barra, which literally falls off the bone and onto your fork. Biryani fans will love the Wild Muntjac, which arrives at the table crowned in a dome of puff pastry.
As with Trishna, the wine list has been created by award-winning sommelier Sunaina Sethi and features some wonderful vintages from around the world. Choose a bottle from the extensive selection, or alternatively, ask for your wine to be paired with each course and benefit from the knowledge and expertise of Gymkhana’s sommeliers. After dinner, head downstairs to the cosy cocktail bar for a drink or few. Designed to resemble a 17th Century East India punch house, this is a great place to settle into a leather love seat and work your way through the innovative cocktail list. Our personal favourite is the Quinine Sour, made with Tanqueray Gin, tonic syrup, fresh curry leaf, lemon and egg white.