It’s worth knowing that Kurobuta is overseen by Scott Hallsworth, once a head chef of Nobu, but don’t let that fact mislead: there’s no miso black cod to be found on the menu, and sushi, while good, isn’t the highlight. Miso does show up, of course, but here it slicks tender morsels of grilled baby chicken and coats moreish hot wings. It’s in plates like these – shareable, snackable, and best enjoyed without utensils; “junk food Japan” as the menu says – that Kurobuta really hits its stride. Wagyu comes packaged into fat-dripping sliders whose toasted buns provide perfect, complementary crunch; pork ribs are sweetened with a honey-soy-ginger glaze and baby shrimp are battered, fried, and dunked in spicy mayo. There are some truly inspired combinations, like crispy skin duck confit with watermelon, alongside a few plates that could use a bit more R&D (steer clear of the BBQ pork belly buns, which come filled with disappointingly chewy, lean cuts of meat). Kurobuta is best enjoyed with a (very hungry) group, and its upbeat atmosphere has the spacious dining room teeming with eaters by dinnertime.