This 2005 addition to the Gordon Ramsay empire was among the ‘wow’ openings of the year – and one mouthful of head chef Jason Atherton’s food reveals why in this best of French restaurants in London. Atherton trained under Ferran Adria at the extraordinary El Bulli restaurant in Spain and his background shines through. Although loosely ‘French with Asian influences’, the menu offers thrillingly different combinations such as crab mayonnaise with sweetcorn sorbet, and foie gras with smoked eel, ginger and rhubarb. There’s a selection of 20 grazing dishes from which you choose six or eight, as well as a more traditional a la carte menu. The staff are happy to advise on choices – and it’s a wise idea if you want to end up with more than a random succession of flavours. Sensibly, there are 26 wines by the glass, so the sommelier can find the perfect match throughout the meal. The split-level space is assuredly chic throughout (although the word among regulars is that the upper tier is more exclusive). Frankly, though, wherever you’re sitting, this is a gastronomic experience not to be missed.