Broadly speaking, Londoners can’t get enough of Mediterranean food – we’re inclined to give a fair amount of credit to a certain Mr. Ottolenghi – but that interest rarely seems to stray towards the explicitly Aegean. After a meal at Opso, a Marylebone eatery that’s pitched as a breezy, all-day café-cum-restaurant – and proudly Hellenistic – you start to wonder how everyone else has managed to bypass these Grecian staples. Like metsovone, a specially imported, smoked cheese that’s fried and served alongside a dollop of jam. Or a 16-hour cooked lamb shake that falls to pieces when gestured at with a fork, served with tomato-steeped orzo. Or loukoumades, balls of spongy fried dough dribbled in honey that can almost be described as Greek gulab jamun. That isn’t to say that everything here could have been cooked by someone’s yiayia: many dishes feature contemporary touches, like the fish sliders that come in wine-dark squid ink buns. But if anything, Opso proudly shows that it’s about time Greek cooking returned to the pantheon.