Barbeque and craft beer may be two of London’s thorniest food trends, but when they’re handled with aplomb, the result is near magic. Sophisticated Smokehouse, found in the quiet, leafy end of Islington, could teach a masterclass on both subjects. While head chef Neil Rankin qualifies as a grade-A meat maverick, his metier is less in serving caveman-sized portions of straight-up steak and more in finding delicacy and potential for experimentation under the broad barbeque banner. Shortrib stars in a sticky bourguignon, mash is laced with bone marrow while smoked duck is woven with spicy kimchi. All of this is, of course, best washed down with craft beer: choose from around 20 on tap and dozens of bottles hailing from London and abroad. Throw in a garden seat and an evening at Smokehouse feels far from the well-trodden realm of ‘dude food’.