Hg2 : The Hedonist


There can’t be many restaurants in London, or the world for that matter, where you get to sample the crunch of crispy cod skin (think luxury pork scratching) with your preprandial champagne. But textural treats are Texture’s USP. If it sounds gimmicky, it’s not. Co-owners chef Agnar Sverrisson and sommelier Xavier Rousset met at Raymond Blanc’s legendary Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, and they’ve put together arguably the best modern European place in town. Sverrisson is big on contrasting textures: cod from his native Iceland might be teamed with chorizo, coco beans and avocado, while Jerusalem artichokes come pickled, roasted and raw. The result is some very, very good food. Add Rousset’s inspired wine selections, housed in a modernist glass cube at the back of the room, and a great front-of-house team and you have one of London’s current foodie highlights. It all comes in a space that mixes grandeur (there’s a fabulous plaster ceiling) with easy-going modernity – and if you can get a lunchtime table, the tasting dishes costs a mere £8.50 each.

34 Portman Square,
+44 20 7224 0028
Opening Times
noon-2.30pm, 6.30-11pm, Tues-Sat
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