Set within Holborn’s glitzy L’oscar Hotel, The Baptist Bar & Grill brings a dose of glamour to its Grade II-listed surroundings. Unapologetically decadent and teetering on OTT— with kitsch bird shaped light fittings and butterfly taps in the bathrooms—this former Edwardian church has taken on a rather more sultry, romantic aesthetic.  Downstairs in the bar, dark wood panelling sits against plush purple velvet and gold William Morris-style peacock prints, while the restaurant above looks down on proceedings from an airy mezzanine gallery. A soaring white dome decorated with delicate ornamental moulding offers a fleeting, beautiful reminder of the building’s former life.

Inspired by its surroundings, the drinks menu skews more toward temptation than redemption, splitting its cocktail list into Old and New Testament serves, with a concise selection of “Heavenly Virtues” set against seven sacrilegious “Deadly Sins”. A largely French wine list is offered by the glass and by the bottle, served in elegant cut glass goblets.

Up in the restaurant, Executive Chef Tony Fleming (of Michelin-starred, Angler), has created a refined menu of traditional British and European dishes, executed with absolute precision. A classic starter of seared scallops is served with sweet onions and caramelised chicory, the acerbic bite of pink grapefruit a beautiful addition, while the main menu makes the most of the restaurant’s Josper grill. Quality dry aged Cumbrian beef is the star attraction, the rib eye steak given a more modern twist and served with garlicky snail ravioli and a silky bordelaise sauce. Sticking with the seductive theme, the desserts are equally enthralling, from the towering pink blackcurrant soufflé to a subtly sweet rosemary and buttermilk panna cotta topped with blood orange sorbet.