Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen
She already has a cookbook under her belt, and now, Zoe Adjonyoh is taking her menu of spice-laden Ghanaian dishes on a peripatetic journey of London’s pop-up venues. Her latest residency is at The Institute of Light: a petite cinema housed in a railway arch in London Fields. While the venue’s spartan bar area might lack something in the atmosphere department, Adjonyoh’s food—with all its joyous, vivid flavours—adds its own luminosity.
Take her fried chicken. Served in generous, boneless pieces, crisply coated and accompanied by a spiced mayo dipping sauce, it’s been (rightly) called the city’s best. Or her addictively good okra fries. Or the kelewele: meltingly soft pieces of plantain made aromatic with myriad spices. Piquant jollof rice and beef suya—the latter translated from street-food staple to burger and moreish skewers—are also must-orders.
As Adjonyoh says, we’re now on the cusp of an African food revolution. In London, recent openings like Peckham’s Kudu and Ikoyi in St James’s Market are doing much to bring the continent’s unexplored culinary riches to a new audience. For its part, Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen feel both cosily familiar and thrillingly new, making it an essential stop on any gastronomic tour.