Drink in more than just the cocktails; the historic ambiance of this enduring Hollywood hangout is nearly as heady. Established in 1939, the Chinese-themed, red-and-ebony décor appears untouched by time – you half expect to find Ava Gardner whisking in from the studio soundstages next door. In the 1940s gangster Bugsy Siegel made book in the back room (a converted trolley car); in the 1960s Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable clinked glasses while making The Misfits (the last film for each); in the 1990s Kim Basinger and Kevin Spacey were offered their L.A. Confidential roles here (the Formosa cameoed); today stars, both of-the-moment and in-the-making, enjoy intimate libations, but rarely the food, which we can’t recommend, at the dim, moody lounge. There’s a back room bar for small parties and a rooftop deck for bigger gatherings, and a museum-like collection of headshots on the wall, hand-delivered by celebs who dallied there over the decades.