There are burgers, and then there are burgers. Burgers that invade your dreams; burgers whose demise you mourn before they’re even half-finished. The burgers at Plan Check fall into the latter category. A spare and industrial restaurant inspired by architectural firms’ aesthetics, Plan Check blends Americana classics (the aforementioned burgers, milkshakes, fries) with Japanese elements that are a nod to its Little Osaka neighbourhood locale (yuzu whiskey sours, an extensive list of Japanese whiskeys). Virtually everything on the menu (and don’t call it fast food Los Angeles dwellers will tell you) is well worth devouring, but the PCB burger stands apart. Though it has the appearance of a classic cheeseburger, every element is so thought-out, so nuanced, that it transcends the genre: house-made American cheese is infused with dashi for an umami hit, onions are fried in schmaltz, the soft bun is decorated in teeny, crunchy morsels, ketchup is included as a “leather” strip that melts into the meat, which itself is unparalleled and comes wreathed in thin pickle strips. You need this burger to happen to you.