We have Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali, and Joe Bastianich to thank for Chi Spacca. And thank them we should – if only for the Focaccia di Recco and the fennel-pollen-dusted Tomahawk pork chop. Both of which are glorious, although for wildly different reasons. The foccacia being a labour of love, a pillowy-soft bread creation that required research, importing, and some damn fine stracchino and olive oil to bring to the table; the pork chop a glorious slab of meat, well-sourced and cooked to perfection.

But there’s a lot to admire at Chi Spacca. Encircled with dark wood and wine bottles, it’s an atmospheric place for a meal, with an open kitchen at one end and the bustle of Melrose outside its front door. And then there’s the menu. Oh, the menu.

While the pork and the focaccia are undeniable showstoppers, they are by no means alone – there’s a whole roster of seared, sensational dishes on offer. We’re thinking particularly of the epic 50oz dry-aged Black Angus Bistecca Fiorentina, and its slightly smaller sibling, the Costata alla Fiorentina, a 36oz dry-aged bone-in New York; both of which will put a serious smile on your face (and have a correspondingly profound impact on your wallet). Can’t stretch to the bistecca? Never fear, you can always opt for the finger-licking Pane Bianco with rich bistecca drippings instead. At the lighter end of the fabulous food spectrum at Chi Spacca, meanwhile, there are plates of stone fruits and creamy-rich burrata salads. Grilled octopus. Roasted squash blossoms. Tarts, sorbets, and panna cotta. The list goes on. One visit may not be enough to get your fill, but that’s no bad thing. More Chi Spacca we say – but so do many other Angelenos, so make a reservation.