The team behind Lateral, who have actually opened four of these restaurants in Madrid, have hit on a winning formula, taking traditional tapas recipes and serving them in minimalist surroundings. The fact that this branch, Lateral, is the first one to open and is right next to that epicentre of cool, the Mercado de Fuencarral shopping mall, won’t have done them any harm at all.

But that’s not to say that the venture isn’t worthy of the success it has garnered. Lateral attracts a young and frighteningly good-looking crowd, who range from the smartly turned out to the fittingly grungy. The range of different shades of vodka behind the bar will be enough to tempt you into having a long drink to accompany your tapas, but there’s a decent selection of wines, too, if that’s what you fancy.