The sister-restaurant of the Parisian Comptoir opened with a dynamic fanfare a few years ago, quickly setting a new standard for restaurants in Marrakech and becoming a key hang-out for the city’s A-list clientele. Its grandeur has faded somewhat (largely thanks to newer, more upbeat kids on the block), but it remains a significant spot for first-time tourists wanting exposure to the city’s legendary mix of chic and exoticism. The culinary action takes place in a dark, seductive main room whose suggestive curves and luxurious reds and blacks are reminiscent of a Far Eastern opium den. Pretty waitresses float around in pink designer dresses, musicians massage the ears, and candles illuminate the faces of the local cognoscenti. The menu is predictably unpredictable and the standard of the food varies quite dramatically, but the culinary experience is, in any case, secondary to the experience of actually being there. After the belly-dancers have whirled around a few times, follow the sumptuous stairwell up to the bar area or skip outdoors to the garden and enjoy a cocktail while reclining against a silky cushion. Service is patchy and prices are high, but not many places still carry a buzz like this.