The beamed ceilings and oversized fan inside Sugarcane bring to mind Cuba, plantations and hurricanes. That signals Sugarcane as something of an abrupt departure from the same team’s earlier project, the bouncy upscale temple to fish and festivity that is Sushi Samba Dromo. The capable Timon Balloo, executive chef here, created a menu in several seemingly unconnected milieus – simple Japanese robataya grill, raw bar, sushi and lush-sounding tapas plates – that holds well together. The only downside is a bill steeper than you’d imagined. This restaurant, new in 2010, has been extremely well received by the public and critics alike, but outside peak weekend hours, the need for reservations is unlikely due to the size of the space. For a more romantic vibe, ask to sit in the garden, surrounded by ivy-covered trees and shrubbery under strung-up white star lanterns.