One wouldn’t customarily go to find a classy fish restaurant in Downtown, Miami (especially to this part of Downtown). However, The River Seafood and Oyster Bar is an unusual breed that has high aspirations yet doesn’t put itself on a pedestal (note the prominently displayed life-size Johnny Cash poster that the singer signed and gave to the owner). On a serious note, chef and restaurateur David Bracha has had 20 years in the briny – seven of them here – and he knows what he’s doing. The place starts buzzing Friday nights pre-dinner, when local business owners and female politicos chat around the slate and mahogany bar (specialty beers on tap and an award-winning wine list are The River’s liquid strong points). Customers keep coming here for the bivalves and seafood, with a variety of bracingly fresh selections that change nightly. Whole Key’s yellowtail snapper main and the lobster cocktail opener are fine starting points. Though the cavernous clubs are not far, The River is best for a night when you won’t be dancing later; crustaceans and bouncing bodies don’t mix.