The most celebrated of Milan’s bakeries (pasticcerie) is Cova, also one of Milan’s most historic and most central, rebuilt in the quadrilatero d’oro in 1950 after Antonio Cova’s original 1817 outlet near La Scala was bombed in World War II. A veritable chocolate box of a cafe?, Cova is revered by ladies of leisure, Manolo-wearing fashionistas and tourists alike. Join them for old-fashioned English tea with smoked-salmon sandwiches and cold cuts in the twee tearooms. Nibble on delicate fresh fruit pasticcini, or plunge into Sachertorte and decadent cream cakes; caviar and champagne cocktails are also available, all at a cost and sadly without much of a smile. If all this chintz is not quite your cup of tea, then the sweets-to-go from the confetteria – pralines, sugared almonds, marrons glace?s – and fairy-tale cakes replete with marzipan ribbons, crystallized flowers and sugar roses make excellent presents and fantasy window displays.