In 1949, Giuseppina Luini left her native Puglia for the bustling streets of Milan, packing up her family’s secret bread recipes along with her suitcases. Under the shadow of the Duomo, she soon established a resoundingly successful panetteria, primarily due to sales of her panzerotti, pizza dough pockets folded around mozzarella and crushed tomatoes. Sixty years later and the shop is still on the same miniscule spot – queues run out the two doors. Giuseppina’s son, Luigi, and her two granddaughters, Emanuela and Cristina, keep the crowds rolling in, spicing things up with fillings that include spinach, garlic-fried mushrooms, ricotta and sausage, as well as sweet tooth versions stuffed with chocolate, cherries, pears and figs. Buy your panzerotto (classic is still the best), join the munching Italians crammed up against the walls, or snag a bench and a little breathing room in nearby Piazza San Fedele.