Le Langhe is Tom Ford’s favourite restaurant in Milan – when at Gucci, he would reserve a table here for the whole of Milan Fashion Week. It is certainly counts as one of the best restaurants on Corso Como, and a favourite because of the surrounding nightlife.

There’s a good upbeat vibe from spirited party-goers, including carb-loading footballers and international models with their PRs, in the informal insalateria upstairs – although celebrities are treated like normal people in this unpretentious trattoria. Likewise, fleeting fashions are ignored: the décor nods to the 1930s with William Morris-style floral wallpaper, Folies Bergères posters, and in the ground-floor conservatory, a rare framed collection of Mussolini’s fascist art magazine La Rivista.

The name ‘Langhe’ is in fact a region in Piedmont, and Papi, chef of 17 years, produces competent Piedmontese specialities, to be washed down with regional wines. Take a tip from Tom Ford: his favourite are the fusilli alle herbe.