Not only is Pisacco proof-positive that truly great food can be affordable, but it shows that you don’t need to sacrifice elegant, contemporary surrounds along with the hefty price tag in order to do it. Found north of Milan’s Brera district, Pisacco is the result of a collaboration between a handful of creative types, including architects Tiziano Vudafieri and Claudio Saverino and chef Andrea Berton, and it shows. The airy, art-filled interiors are as pleasing to the eye as the dishes are to the palate.
On street level, diners will find the bar and cafe area, decorated with a bold wall drawing from artist Gabriella Ciancimino in blacks, reds and lit with suitably striking lighting. Downstairs in the restaurant, meanwhile, the ambience mellows, with pistachio-coloured chairs, plenty of light wood and shades of warm white used throughout. And, looking up, there are painted arched brick ceilings and a messy tangle of low-hanging bulbs. It’s a relaxed, no-frills atmosphere in which to enjoy the simple, sophisticated modern Italian fare.
The menu is short and sweet, with a handful of choices for each course. The locally-sourced, delicately handled ingredients shine in the handling of the chefs at Pisacco, whether it’s octopus (tenderly cooked with “fiolaro” broccoli) or fresh-picked radicchio, served in a salad with parmesan, apple mustard and lardo. And the wine list is thoughtfully curated, offering up enough new and established names to tempt diners into long, leisurely, unpretentious lunches and dinners.