Through a Narnia-like frosted-glass shop front on Ticinese’s main drag is the family-run Trattoria Toscana, one of the more enchanting places to eat in Milan. It is set in a fairy-like courtyard filled with trees, ferns and bamboo, and candlelit bistro tables and chairs encircling a central fountain.rnrnHowever, those in the mood for romancing should move on to the next review – this is essentially a pre-club warm-up with big beats from the large cocktail bar that charges the atmosphere with the right to party. rnrnIt’s an institution of new Navigli, filled with a vibrant young crowd all up for some action. The food and wine is simple and tasty (and not Tuscan – that would take too long to make); with only four staff in the open kitchen and a capacity of 170, expect express classics such as cotaletta, pastas and risottos. rnrnIt’s always upbeat, popular and packed, and great for groups; start early with aperitivo. By winter, a forest of gas burners and roofing keep it warm; in the summer the roof is raised – literally.