Few spaces in the world can compete with the industrial vastness of the Bicocca Hangar: a dark, gritty, mini-Tate Turbine Hall. At 15,000m2 (much of it Cathedral-high ceilings) the space was once given over to a titanic, train motor works; the current artistic attraction is a one-of-a-kind big black canvas for no limits urban art. Anselm Kiefer’s Seven Heavenly Places – on permanent exhibition – makes excellent use of half the building with a Towers of Babel type construction. Revolving installations ranging from 30m-high Indian art to photographic mazes (as the hangar is pitch black these are pretty scary) seek to knock visitors off their suburban treadmill – indeed the hangar sits next door to a multiplex cinema and Virgin gym. A hike out of town, and the loos are porta’ (must be that stark feel they’re going for) but the hangar punches its full weight.