Many restaurants claim to take a global approach, but their food never strays beyond well-worn paths. The Green Goddess, however, explores the world’s cuisines with the attitude of a backpacker out to find the most exotic locales. Led by Chris DeBarr, who made a name for himself at the Delachaise, the kitchen turns out unexpected pairings like crêpes filled with Mexican corn fungus, shrimp wearing a grass skirt” of phyllo dough