Its glowing red vertical neon sign on the corner of Houston and Ludlow still beckons like a lighthouse steering you to something sensible and safe – and, since 1888 (it’s the oldest NY deli there is), delicious.

Grab a number, wait to give your order, and take a seat in the cacophonous dining area (or get it to go, like chef Fabio Trabocchi) and experience what about a dozen of our foodies-who-should-know say is the quintessential NY dining experience.

While it may be known more for those over-stuffed, melty-meat pastrami sandwiches at lunch or late-night, Grub Street’s Josh Ozersky likes to stroll in when least expected.