What makes chef Alexandra Guarnaschelli sigh over lovely little August restaurant? “Because it’s so homey, in a great location, and I love that oven!” Indeed, it’s not just the glow from the wood-burning oven that draws diners to press their noses against this West Village eatery’s picture window panes.

The whole place exudes such a warmth and welcoming aura – from the distressed plaster walls to the tiny candlelit tables to the lovely, brick-walled atrium garden in the back – it’s the kind of spot you are drawn back to again and again.

The influence on Terrance Gallivan’s savory, rustic dishes hop scotch from France to Italy to Eastern Europe to Spain, and some of the best of it presented on dough, like his irresistible Alsatian tart with traditional crème fraiche and onions and a touch of smoky bacon.