Chef Laurent Tourondel – whose departed Cello on the Upper East Sidernannounced him to New York restaurant snobs – has spent the last few yearsrnre-proving his aptitude for pleasing big-spending, big city appetites,rnwith Chelsea’s BLT Fish; the Gramercy Park chophouse BLT Prime; and BLTrnSteak, the first spot of the 2000s, which has earned him the greatestrnculinary recognition and laid his claim to the initials BLT (BistrornLaurent Tourondel). As much a feast for the eyes as for the palate, the space is a sexyrnescape from Midtown, with a plush lounge anchored by a lengthy zincrnbar. Its main dining room, however, is a hive of activity; a strikingrnstage for Tourondel’s brand of dining with abandon. American Kobe skirt steak is marinated in fragrant herbs; the veal choprnis imposing and incredibly tender; spiced swordfish is a marvelousrnalternative to the red meat. Sides such as onion rings and potatorngratin are lifted to new heights, while sauces such as the threernmustard, classic béarnaise, or horseradish make sure all senses arernhumming by the time the check comes.