There are few greater compliments for New York restaurants than maintaining a following of the top critics, off-duty chefs, and discriminating diners night after night – and late into the night, at that. (Dinner is served until 4am every night; no reservations for parties of four or under. even you.) This eclectic, market-driven new American spot from chefs/owners Bruce and Eric Bromberg subscribes to no formula or ethos other than that the ingredients should sing, that variety is the spice of life, and that everything – caviar, barbecued ribs, matzoh ball soup, fried chicken with mashed potatoes, paella, sweetbreads – is fair game. Of course, there are mainstays such as the raw bar – arguably the best in the city – and the understated decadence of the chocolate Bruno dessert. Do expect to contend with lines filled with self-important folks, and a legendary volume issue (your ears may ring the next morning). But it’s worth it, otherwise none of you would be there.