Cherche Midi looks like it’s been spirited straight from the streets of Paris to its spot in New York’s Nolita neighbourhood. The walls, and rustic wooden cabinets mounted thereon, are painted a light-enhancing shade of soft buttercup yellow, with ruby red leather banquettes. Mirrors and white tiles abound. Altogether it’s light, airy, and utterly charming.

The Parisian bistro motif continues to the accomplished lunch and dinner menus, with French favourites like chicken liver parfait on grilled levain, croque monsieur, and frisée salad with confit de canard, dried cherries, red wine vinaigrette, and soft-boiled egg making an appearance. For something more substantial, Cherche Midi’s burger (with bacon marmalade, roasted mushrooms, aged Gruyère cheese and pommes frites) is a crowd-pleaser, as is the dry-aged prime rib with cider-braised cipollini and pommes soufflées.

Happily, in fine French fashion, there’s an entire menu here devoted to fromage, from nutty smooth French Pyrénées brebis to the soft raw cow’s cheese, the Moses Sleeper, from Vermont. Accompanied by a glass or two from the well put together wine list, available by the glass and carafe, and you’ve got the makings of a great meal. Bon appetit!