Tofu at EN Japanese Brasserie is made hourly, that is to say, about six times a night. From that, you’ll ascertain pretty quick that they take their food seriously here. And thank goodness they do. That’s why you can try that freshly made scooped tofu, served either warm or chilled, while it’s soft and quivering with wari-joyu, a sauce of fish broth and soy. People have been known to dine here for that dish alone.

But there’s a whole plethora of other visit-worthy dishes, from the ebi shinjo (shrimp fritters deep-fried with salt) and epic uni don (sea urchin, salmon roe and mekabu seaweed over rice) to the thinly-sliced Washugyu Black Angus short rib (sourced from a ranch in Oregon, just in case you were wondering) that’s served with a hot stone for searing. There’s sashimi made from Scottish salmon, yellowtail from Kagoshima, and Kumamoto oysters from Washington state. Stone-grilled lobster with butter miso sauce and house-made Nuka-Zuké pickled vegetables with yuzu. The list goes on. Suffice to say, it’s extensive and utterly beguiling.

A sake flight, shochu or a Japanese whisky (of which there are many) would be the obvious accompaniments to a stylish dinner here – and it is stylish, EN Japanese Brasserie is spacious, high-ceilinged and populated with light oak. But there’s a respectable list of beer, wine and cocktails as well. The Hojicha in particular, made with house-infused hojicha-roasted green tea “teaquila”, lemon, orange zest and Angostura bitters, is well worth a try.