Reading Paul Greico’s head-spinning, ogle-worthy wine list is almost (almost!) as fun as selecting and drinking it. Pegged by both Ralf Kuettel of Trestle on Tenth and Harold Moore of Commerce as the spot they prefer to go for great vino with their dinner, Greico’s wine list is nothing short of a hoot. There are pages and pages of earnest pleas for attention to unsung grape heroes like Zierfandler (“Just what the hell is Zierfandler? Dick Cheney’s battle cry before he shoots a friend in the face? .The name of the weed Bill Clinton is smoking now which has diminished his political capability by a good 75% . All of the above may be true but in wine terms, Zierfandler could be the coolest grape you have never tried.”). He dubs Alsatians schizophrenics. He’s a mad, mad wine loving man, and you can bet your bottom Barbera that he’ll find the perfect match for chef Marco Canora’s braised veal breast with sweet breads and hen-of-the-woods ‘shrooms or roasted skate with eggplant, capers, and tomato confit.