Most people love Mexican food, yet poorly executed Mex meals are served far too often in our town. It’s a crying shame. Chef Richard Sandoval offsets these unfortunate occurrences with a magical mastery of the cuisine, and the Upper East Side is hooked, alongside famished foodies and discerning critics. Sandoval brings style, showmanship, and reverence to both classic and newly conjured dishes – fiery flautas, chile relleno, and mole poblano are punchy but never vulgar. Meanwhile, his butterflied filet mignon with chile poblano-potato gratin just might be my choice for a last meal, and his sea fare – mahi mahi, chile chipotle mustard grilled salmon, and three-chile-crusted tuna – make ordinary fish extraordinary. As one might suspect, the margaritas here are flat-out fabulous. try the wallet-whopping Margarita Estrella (Don Julio 1942 with Agavero liqueur, grapefruit, and citrus juices for $27).