Maddening? Maybe. But the unstoppable David Chang veers more into crazy-like-a-fox than plain old crazy. After all, the more exclusive something is in these parts, the more people want in. And so, his by-random lottery system, that makes one feel a little bit like they’re trying to win on a call-in radio show, has been a smashing success. And if you’re more than 15 minutes late for said reservation, well. that coveted spot will be given to the next lucky winner.