While the expense account set has certainly clued itself in to this lively, white-tiled bistro from ever-clever restaurateur Keith McNally, true foodies and sexy downtowners still count Schiller’s as one of their favourite New York restaurants, utterly addicted to the well-executed offerings such as mustard-crusted seared salmon, the otherworldly steak frites (try it with the Maître d’ butter), and authentic Welsh rarebit with grilled tomato. Hitting Schiller’s in the early evening – back when we used to all eat – is key, for you’ll be elbow-to-razorsharp-elbow with an entitled bottle blonde by 10pm. But no matter. the comforting fare, accompanied by three classifications of wine (cheap, decent, and good) will have you drowning out your neighbors in no time. At the end of the day, it comes down to this: Schiller’s, as much and perhaps more than any of McNally’s establishments, makes New York dining feel sexy and fun – something it has been and always can be, as long as we all don’t take it so seriously.