A simple, squareish room plus a little courtyard at the rear, shared with Mourad ‘Momo’ Mazouz’s other two Paris babies, restaurants 404 and Derrière (see Eat), Andy Wahloo – it sounds like ‘I have nothing’ in Arabic – is relaxed, hip and easy to love.

The look is colourful and (very) cheerful, with street signs and cooking-oil barrels recycled as tables and stools, and bright packaging displayed as kitsch art, next to film posters and tourism ads. Imagine an African street market serving ace mojitos and playing Curtis Mayfield, and you’re there. It’s still buzzing, eight years after opening; you’ll be lucky to find a place on the cushion-strewn Moroccan bench seating after 9pm.

Great cocktails aside, refreshments include north African wines and mint tea, and there are tartines and charcuterie to snack on, supplied by the bar’s sister restaurants.