A dependably cool all-dayer, Dédé la Frite makes an unpretentious pitstop for the aperitif, with fairly priced wine and beers, and diner-style food served till 11pm: burgers, amazing hand-cut fries, grills and salads. It’s easy to stay on till closing time, standing at the bar or occupying one of the dozen café tables, and bantering your way through a few bottles of wine.

The decor is distressed and industrial, with exposed ducts, bare concrete and peeling paint. The crowd isn’t quite as grungey, with lots of suits from the nearby Bourse coming by for after-work drinks, as well as indie boys in bashed-up leather jackets. The music’s pretty ace too, starting out quirky and ending up loud.